Plastic in Paradise

Washed-up fishing nets and floats

Plastic crap on the beach

Haula Bay in the Maha'ulepu area on the south shore of Kauai is one the most dynamic and scenic spots on the island.  Because it faces directly into the the prevailing northeast trade winds, it is also, unfortunately, a good barometer for the amount of trash in the ocean.  Commercial fishing nets and floats, broken long lines, and other by-products of the fishing industry are frequent sights.  The ubiquitous plastic junk is always around.  The photo shows big plastic trash but does not capture the tiny bits of plastic scattered on the shore.  The growing plague of plastic waste in the oceans has been widely documented but the reality hits hard when you repeatedly see it in a setting like this.  If you want to really get a view of the problem, get the June 2018 issue of National Geographic magazine.  

Fortunately, the Surfrider Foundation and other groups and individuals do a great job to keep Kauai's beaches as clean as reasonably possible.  Mahalo to all who participate in this never-ending effort.  

When you live on a small island, the impacts of man-made problems are quickly magnified.  This household is trying to reduce our consumption of plastic, especially single-use products and packaging.  We favor the food trucks and vendors that use paper instead of the dreaded styrofoam clamshell.  We try to consolidate e-commerce activity to avoid excess bubble wrap and packaging.  If you are a guest, we have plenty of re-usable water bottles - please don't buy that "flat" of water at Costco!  And, hey Costco, can you do something about some of those "club packs" clad in over a square foot of nearly impenetrable plastic and cardboard?  Black plastic containers are also a curse as they are difficult to recycle here.  More and more, our buying decisions are being influenced by the kind and amount of packaging around a product.

So, even if you live a thousand miles from an ocean, I hope that you might think about your individual and household waste streams and consider ways to radically reduce needless harmful junk that can seep into the earth's ecosystems.  If you are an entrepreneur and can focus your talents and energy on real solutions to the growing plastic mess, I and many others would gladly invest in you!  

The world's oceans need help and even the smallest individual effort can start to make a difference.  

49 Inches of Rain in One Day

http://www.latimes.com/nation/la-na-hawaii-storm-kauai-20180428-story.html

No matter how you think about climate change - human-influenced or a natural cycle - the reality seems to be that events are occurring that no one has experienced previously or even thought about as real and present dangers.  Whether a killer fire that sweeps into Santa Rosa, California in the middle of the night or 49 inches of rain in 24 hours, it feels like severe weather events are becoming more of a norm.  Even in the short 3 years we have been full time Kauai residents, we have seen shifting weather patterns.  The impacts are magnified on a small remote island.  The strong community on Kauai can recover from this mess but if extreme rainfall becomes a regular event, all bets are off.  

Too Much of a Good Thing?

As markets have moved upward from the abyss of the Great Recession, and consumer confidence grows, people are traveling in record numbers.  With less emphasis on acquiring stuff and a desire to instead have more “experiences,” tourism is booming.

Living on a small island that is also a very attractive place to visit, we see the impact daily.  Tourism in Hawaii accounts for over half of the state’s GDP, with over 9 million visitors spending nearly $17 billion in 2017.  Kauai had 1.7 million visitors, so, averagely speaking, there are 20,000 visitors on any given day and many more in peak periods.  The permanent resident population is app. 70,000.

A question we are often asked:  “What’s the best time to come to (Hawaii / Kauai)?”  Until recently, we thought we had a good answer.  Any time other than the peak visitor periods, and probably good to avoid August and September when it can be uncomfortably warm and humid.

Well, there was no historic lull in visitors in February.  In addition to U.S. and Canada visitors, I hear more European and Asian languages, and lots of Aussie and Kiwi accents.  Airlines have added more flights from the mainland and Asia.  Most days it feels like there are more rental cars on the single road that traverses 3/4s of the island than local vehicles.  Parking at popular beaches means arriving early in the day or waiting a long time, hoping for a space.  Thanks to social media, even the more obscure beaches and trails are usually besieged with rental cars.  

So it appears that in 2017 and going into this year, there will be no real off-peak times.  How this impacts the quality of life for residents and the experience for visitors is a growing discussion topic.  Congestion is one issue.  Staffing to serve a growing number of visitors is another issue. With a 2% unemployment rate and a limited labor force, help wanted signs are everywhere. Peripheral issues like a growing waste stream become a big deal on a small island.

Kauai is not the only island dealing with these challenges.  An advanced reservation is required to see the sunrise over Haleakala on Maui.  Hanauma Bay State Park on Oahu controls access and closes each Tuesday to give the fish a break from 3000 daily visitors.  Limiting daily access to some Kauai beaches is a recurring topic.

Some folks have conjectured that the storms that pummeled the Caribbean have temporarily pushed more visitors to Hawaii.  Maybe.  But then Hawaiian Airlines just ordered up to 20 Boeing 787 Dreamliners to add capacity so a significant decline in tourist activity does not seem likely.

We enjoy showing guests this unique and beautiful island and giving them a little taste of island life.  We want everyone to have the same great experience that we have enjoyed as visitors and residents.  But how much of a good thing is too much is a growing concern.  

Really Really Dark

When we first arrived here on the southwest corner of Kauai, a nighttime attraction was watching the full moon rise over the ocean or hills.  After a couple of months, I realized the magic of being in a really really dark place.  Seeing the moon is great but the moonless weeks are fantastic.

By dark I mean so dark that on a moonless night you can’t see your feet!  Trying to walk an unfamiliar route without a flashlight is near impossible.  I had not experienced that kind of natural darkness before.

At first I was amazed by all the stars visible to the naked eye.  Then one night I realized that the high band of cloud I kept seeing was the Milky Way!  Not clouds - stars!  While the Milky Way can be seen all year, it blooms from June through September.  Arcing across the sky, it is a spectacular and humbling sight.

In a June 2016 article (link) National Geographic reported that light pollution has blotted out the Milky Way for 80% of Americans.  Even in this remote location, I fear more light incursion.  I was happy to see the county change the ugly sodium vapor streetlights over to downward-directed LEDs - but even LEDs create problems.

You can learn more about light pollution and dark sky locations across the U.S. at the International Dark-Sky Association (darksky.org) 

Meanwhile, I learned to use the camera to capture way more of the heavens than the unaided eye can see.  You can view some of those images in the The Sky gallery on this site.  I hope these inspire you to seek out a dark place where you experience the night as nature intended.

About This Ocean

I grew up on the west coast of Florida, enjoying the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Mexico.  Later I lived in southeast Florida, and also spent 17 years on north Florida's great beaches.  While there were occasional strong rip currents, the Atlantic beaches were user-friendly and generally safe.

Being in the middle of the Pacific ocean is much different.  We are on tiny islands in the midst of an ocean that covers one-third of the planet.  "Force of nature" does not adequately describe the power of the wind and waves and currents moving around the islands.  A sandy beach with coconut palms and aqua water is seductive.  Just don't be lulled into complacency.  A few tips for visiting Hawaii's beaches:

- Swim where there are lifeguards.  Ask them about water conditions - you don't want to dive into surf with stinging jellyfish, for example.  

- If there are no lifeguards, don't go in the water if no one else is in the water.  If locals are not in the water, there is a good reason for it.  If in doubt, don't go above ankle deep.

- If you want to surf, boogie board, body surf, etc. observe conditions and ask a local about currents, rocks, and reefs.  Folks are in emergency rooms daily with cuts, contusions and broken bones.  

- Don't sit on the beach at a low point or even a small gully.  A sneaker wave moves way faster than you can run.  I've seen families get knocked head over heels with blankets, chairs, and electronics scattered everywhere.

- Exploring tidal pools and shoreline reefs is fun.  Just wear something on your feet - rock and coral are sharp!  Beware slippery algae on the rocks.  And never ever turn your back on the ocean.

2018 Kauai lifeguard statistics:  10 drownings, 136 life saving rescues, 1960 preventative actions, over 600 first aid activities.  Don't be a statistic - use common sense and respect the ocean.

The Best Guidebook?

There are many guidebooks for Kauai and the other islands.  Many are good; some not so good.  My favorite is Kauai Trailblazer: Where to Hike, Snorkel, Bike, Paddle, Surf.  It is available in softcover and e-book at Amazon.  The e-book is a little more up to date, with more pictures.  I refer to both versions frequently.  The book is well organized, directions are precise, and descriptions are accurate.  That means pay attention to advice about risks or cautions!  Kauai is a great place for outdoor activity but you can get in trouble fast without adequate information or preparation.  This book gets you prepared.  The book is especially recommended if you plan to extensively hike the island.  

A Really Handy Map →

If you are visiting Kauai for a week or more, I recommend this map.  It packs a lot of information front and back.  The freebie map from Hawaiian Airlines at the airport is OK, but this is way better.  Get it online at https://www.envdhawaii.com/product/kauai-island-atlas-maps/ or look for it in stores around the island.  For sure it is available at Kauai Photo Tours in central Kapa'a.  

GPS on a phone is great but having a good map with nice visuals and comprehensive information is a good tool.  I refer to this map frequently . . . . .